Washed Robusta, Single-Estate Coffees
Robusta coffees, often scorned in the specialty world, are grown, picked, and processed in India with the same care as Arabica. Most are grown at elevations as high as 4,000 feet—an elevation also suitable for growing Arabica. Indian Robusta coffees are some of the cleanest, mellowest Robusta in the world, and the markets have assigned a substantial premium for Indian washed Robusta. It has none of the rubbery aftertaste one normally associates with such coffees.
As a signature component of European espresso, India's washed Robusta is clearly superior to Robusta from other origins in regard to its bean and cup qualities. These Indian washed Robusta beans provide a smooth, mellow cup with intense aroma and a chocolate-like fragrance. They also have a rather pleasant aftertaste with cup qualities that are actually quite Arabica-like. In an evaluation performed by Coffee Enterprises in Burlington, Vermont, in 1996, cuppers concluded that Indian Kaapi Royale had a very clean flavor, and had this to say about the suitability of Kaapi Royale for espresso: "At 25 percent, one could hardly tell the inclusion of Robusta in the blend."
Perhaps the real secret to the unique, soft, Arabica-like cup characteristics of Indian Robusta lies in the fact that most Robusta plant material in India is a hybrid. Of the many hybrids in 1930s India, growers concluded that Selection-274 was the best in terms of bean size and yield, and growers selected it for popularizing. One unique feature of this particular selection is that each subsequent generation is faithful to its parent.
These Robusta coffees are excellent roasters, with a good green aroma. The dry fragrance is fruity, very strong, and deeply sweet. Fruitiness dominates the wet fragrance; it's very strong, with some pleasing herb overtones such as lavender. The coffee features a creamy mouth feel and brew strength. The taste is also fruity, and the aftertaste is long and reminiscent of prunes and tobacco.
Much of our washed Robusta is from the Hoowinahuckloo and Kerehuckloo group of estates and the Balanoor Plantations in Balehonnur, within the Chikmagalur district, at elevations above 3,000 feet. These Robusta plants are grown in the shade. Original jungle trees and Silver Oak provide permanent shade. However, unlike with Arabica, no Dadap trees are used as temporary shade covers in the Robusta fields.